From: Ahmed Abuelnaga on
Cairo
Visiting Cairo, EgyptÂ’s capital and AfricaÂ’s largest city, can be an
overwhelming experience. More than 16 million people call it home;
itÂ’s chaotic, exotic, smelly, dusty, and also beautiful. This travel
guide to Cairo will help you make sense of the chaos and give you
information about what to see in Cairo, when to go to Cairo, how to
get around Cairo, where to shop in Cairo, a guide to the Pyramids
and how to get there and where to stay when you visit Cairo.
Cairo has probably never been described as dull, so in my opinion it
is worth spending more than just a couple of days. There is a lot to
see in Cairo. You can enjoy the numerous historic buildings of the
cityÂ’s many rulers - Arab, Roman, Greek, Turkish, British, French -
spanning over five millennia. And of course there are the Pyramids
and the Sphinx just outside Cairo, in Giza. Cairo is also a great
place to shop and soak up some Islamic culture.
When to Go:
As with most destinations in Egypt, the weather really determines the
best time to go because it gets very, very hot in the summer. The best
time to visit is in the cooler months between November and March. For
CairoÂ’s current temperatures and annual averages click here. For a
list of holidays see Egypt: Travel tips before you go.
What to See in Cairo
Old (Coptic) Cairo
Coptic Cairo (Masr al-Qadima) is the oldest part of the city, and is
the original site of Roman built Babylon. This part of Cairo has been
inhabited for more than 2000 years. It is the center of the Coptic
Christian community and where youÂ’ll find most of EgyptÂ’s churches.
Highlights include the Hanging Church which is the center of Coptic
worship and the Ben Ezra synagogue, EgyptÂ’s oldest synagogue. Roman
remains and old cobbled streets make this area very interesting for
the historians among us. Egyptology Online has more information on the
sights of Old Cairo.
Islamic (Medieval) Cairo
Worth exploring for its warren like streets and bazaars, Islamic Cairo
is where youÂ’ll get to see many mosques, the Citadel and the Khan Al-
Khalili bazaar(see shopping). The major mosques worth visiting include
the Mosque of Mohammed Ali (named after a 19th century ruler, not the
boxer). The Ibn Tulun is one of the largest mosques in the world and
the Al-Azhar mosque houses the oldest university in the world (from
970AD). TourEgypt has a very detailed article about Islamic CairoÂ’s
many sights as well as an informative feature on ancient mosques.
Islmaic Cairo makes my list of Top Ten Attractions in Egypt.
Egyptian Museum
If you visit Luxor youÂ’ll find most tombs are empty and what the
looters didnÂ’t take home with them, ended up here at the Egyptian
museum. Along with mummies, sarcophagi and many other ancient relics
this museum represents EgyptÂ’s archaeological glory. The Egyptian
Museum makes my list of Top Ten Attractions you should see when you
visit Egypt. The objects taken from TutankhamenÂ’s tomb should not be
missed. The boy-kingÂ’s death-mask made of solid gold has been
described as the most beautiful object ever made. The museum is open
from 9am - 5pm daily. For current information on exhibits and virtual
tours visit the museum web site.
City of the Dead (Qarafa)
This may not sound like the liveliest part of Cairo to visit, but this
huge necropolis on the East side of Cairo is in fact home to several
million Cairenes. A vast ‘living cemetery’ as it were makes it a
fascinating place to visit. Ornate tombs have become the living
quarters for many of CairoÂ’s poor and their place of business too. To
illustrate its appeal, here is a visual journey.
A Falucca on the Nile
Tired of breathing exhaust fumes and getting asked to buy a carpet?
Head for the peace of the Nile. You can rent a Falucca (an ancient
sail boat) by the hour. Take a taxi or walk to Garden City opposite
the Meridien Hotel for your launch.
Whirling Dervishes
Free performances by Sufi dancers take place at the Citadel and on
Wednesday and Saturday nights at the Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri in Islamic
Cairo. By all accounts these are amazing performances and will not
disappoint.
Cairo Tower
A good place to enjoy a panoramic view of the city while sipping a
beer in a slowly revolving restaurant. Located on Gazera Island
(Zemalak) it is open from 9am-1am every day.
Bazaars and Bargaining:
One of the pleasures of Cairo is to get lost in the bazaars (souqs)
and take in the sights, smells and sounds of life in all its chaos and
glory. You can shop for carpets, camels, shoes, books and veils or
whatever else takes your fancy. Leave your valuables behind in your
hotel and immerse yourself in a world that has changed little in
hundreds of years.
For souvenirs most tourists head to Khan Al-Khalili one of the worldÂ’s
oldest bazaars. If you like haggling, this is the place for you. To
get away from the souvenir shops head west and youÂ’ll have a more
authentic souq experience. The main goods sold are gold, silver,
copper, perfume, spices, and cloth. Another place that gets good
reviews for souvenir shoppers is the Khan Misr Touloun also located in
medieval Cairo, just in front of the Mosque Ibn Touloun.
You probably arenÂ’t seriously considering buying a Â’ship of the
desertÂ’ but just wait until you see these lovely beasts at the camel
bazaar (souq al-gamal). Held every Friday beyond Sharia Sudan in the
west of city these beasts have travelled a long way to get to Cairo,
so give them a pat on the head. Go early in the morning to get the
most out of this bazaar.
Try the Wekalet al-Balah, for fabrics, including Egyptian cotton, the
Tent makersÂ’ Bazaar for applique-work, Mohammed Ali Street for musical
instruments, and Mahmoud Abd El Ghaffar in the Khan Al-Khalili for
dance costumes (for the belly-dancers among you).
You get the idea, Cairo is a bit of a shoppers paradise. Not only can
you get everything but you can watch most of it get made; what could
be more fun?
Here are some bargaining tips that will come in handy at the bazaars:
* Feel free to accept tea from the shopkeeper if it is offered, it
doesnÂ’t obligate you to buy and itÂ’s a nice custom.
* Halve the first asking price and start from there.
* Stay polite and have a sense of humor while bargaining, it is
supposed to be fun.
* Walking away is a good way to get the price down quickly.
* Convert the asking price in to your own currency before you end up
haggling like crazy over what turns out to be a few pennies.
* Pay what you think the item is worth and donÂ’t worry too much if
others have paid less.
* If the price is too high or you donÂ’t want an item just leave, there
will be plenty more opportunities just around the corner.
What to See Around Cairo:
The Pyramids and the Sphinx
You wonÂ’t want to miss one of EgyptÂ’s top attractions, the last
surviving member of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Great Pyramid
of Giza. There are in fact three main pyramids in Giza; the Great
Pyramid of Khufu (or Cheops), The Pyramid of Kafhre and the smaller
Pyramid of Menkaura. Each Pyramid is a tomb to a different King of
Egypt. In front of the pyramids lies the Sphinx, or Abu al-Hol in
Arabic, “Father of Terror”. Carved out of a single block of stone,
this enormous cat-like sculpture has mesmerized millions of visitors.
GizaÂ’s three pyramids and the Sphinx were thought to have been
constructed in the fourth dynasty of EgyptÂ’s Old Kingdom, arguably the
first great civilization on earth. For most of us that translates in
to about 5000 years ago. Even though there is still debate about how
the pyramids at Giza were built, most are in agreement it wasnÂ’t by
aliens . It is believed about 20,000 laborers were used and
approximately 2 million blocks of stone, each weighing 2.5 tons, just
to build the Pyramid of Khufu. For an in depth account of how they
were built and a virtual tour inside the Great Pyramid (Khufu) explore
the Pyramids with Nova and PBS.
Getting Around and Going Inside the Pyramids
Getting around the pyramids is easy enough, you can walk, take a horse
and buggy or take a camel ride. A couple tips on the camel ride:
* Bargain hard before you get on the camel.
* DonÂ’t take a photo of the camel unless you are prepared to pay.
* If you are feeling harassed then grab your nearest Antiquity
Policeman to help you out.
* Enjoy the ride, it is a once in a lifetime experience and worth a
few bucks.
Climbing Up
I have some shaky Super 8 footage of myself as a six-year-old
clambering up Khufu but that practice has been strictly forbidden
since the 1980Â’s. Some intrepid folks attempt to climb up the sides of
the Pyramids late at night, but really, it isnÂ’t worth ruining a
Wonder of the World just for the thrill of it.
Going In
You can go inside the pyramids, but beware if you suffer from
claustrophobia. The climbs are very steep and narrow so your knees
have to be in good shape. Here is a decent account of one personÂ’s
experience inside Khufu (Cheops). You have to get a separate ticket to
enter the pyramids and they are limited to 300 per day so get there
early.
Sound and Light Show
A sound and light show centered around the Sphinx is a nightly
occurrence. Although it may sound too touristy for some, everyone ends
up learning some interesting facts about the Pyramids and shows are in
several different languages.
How to get to the Pyramids:
A taxi from the center of Cairo is probably the easiest way to get to
the Pyramids, although mini and micro buses also make frequent trips.
An air-conditioned bus also departs regularly from the Midan Tahrir.
For advice on getting to the Pyramids from other parts of Egypt check
out this site.
Saqqara
If you are interested in seeing the forerunner to the Great Pyramid
head to Saqqara to see the ‘Step Pyramid’. It is considered to be the
first pyramid ever built and it dates to around 2800 BC.
Getting Around Cairo
The best way to get around Cairo is on foot and its density makes it
possible to see the main sites even if youÂ’re no athlete. But, legs do
get tired and if you are a female walking alone you may get weary of
the attention youÂ’ll no doubt be getting. Cairo is also not an easy
city to quickly get your bearings in. Maps will help you and so will
the many forms of transport available to you:
Taxi:
There are more little black and white taxis in Cairo than minarets and
thatÂ’s saying something. You can hail a cab from any corner of any
street, so getting one isnÂ’t a problem. Getting a fair price and
emerging at your destination with nerves intact is another story ( the
same can be said for cabs in New York). A couple of tips to avoid
getting annoyed:
* The meters donÂ’t work so agree on the price before you get in to the
cab
* Single men sit in the front, single women in the back
* It is not unusual to pick up extra passengers along the way, so
donÂ’t be alarmed if this happens
* Keep small notes so you can pay the exact amount when you get out of
the cab
* Hold on and thank the stars you donÂ’t have to drive
Metro:
The only metro system in Africa and its a pleasure to ride. The first
carriage is for women only, it runs on time, it runs until midnight
and itÂ’s cheap. Buy your tickets at the station and hold on to them
until you exit at your destination station. HereÂ’s a map.
Bus:
Buses and mini-buses are a good option to get around the city if you
speak and read Arabic and are on a tight budget. Tickets can be bought
on board and be prepared to get up close and personal with your fellow
passengers.
Getting to and from the International Airport
Although arriving in Cairo can be a little overwhelming it isnÂ’t a
dangerous place. You may get ripped off but violent crime is extremely
rare. DonÂ’t worry too much about spending your first night in a hotel
recommended by your taxi-driver that on hindsight cost you 5 times it
should have.
A reasonable taxi fare from the airport to the center of town and vice
versa is around 25 Egyptian Pounds
Buses and mini-buses depart both terminals and end up in the center of
town at Midan Tahrir, the transport hub of Cairo. They cost less than
1 Egyptian Pound.
Where to Stay
Like every major world city, Cairo has plenty of accommodation
options. Perhaps the best way to narrow down your choices is to decide
if you would like a hotel near the Pyramids, near the airport
(Heliopolis), in the center of town or in some of the finer, quieter
neighbourhoods like Zamalek.
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